Agricultural Fiber Production Standards for Certified Organic Cotton
Textile Processing Standards available for organic cotton and organic fiber

Updated: July 9, 2008 The following is intended to provide information and insights into the various standards and certifications for organic textile products. Note that suppliers of organic textile products meet varying levels of organic certification throughout the processing steps for fiber and textiles. Certification to the various standards is required for the use of the specific organic labels and/or logos on applicable materials and/or products.

Agricultural Fiber Production Standards for Certified Organic Cotton

United States Department of Agriculture, National Organic Program (NOP)
Scope for fiber products: Fiber and animal production
Intended Reach: Products sold in USA
Identification on Product: USDA Organic Logo (allowed only for food products; not allowed for textile products)
Managing Organization: United States Department of Agriculture
Link to NOP website
The National Organic Program (NOP), established under the USDA (United States Department of Agriculture) in 2002, develops, implements, and administers national production, handling, and labeling standards for organic agricultural products sold into the U.S. market. This standard does not cover the processing of textile products, but it does dictate the way that the fibers are grown at the farm level.

Certifiers and accreditation:
The NOP accredits the certifying agents (foreign and domestic) who inspect organic fiber production and handling operations insuring that the USDA/NOP standards are met.
List of accredited certifiers for the NOP

European Economic Community (EEC 2092/91)
Scope for fiber products: Fiber and animal production
Intended Reach: Products sold in the EU
Identification on Product: Organic Farming - EC Control System logo (allowed only for food products; not allowed for textile products)
Managing Organization: European Economic Community
Link to EEC 2092/2091Standard
The European Union organic regulation applies to non-processed agricultural crop and animal products, processed agricultural products intended for human consumption and to animal feed. The regulation outlines the rules for labeling of organic produce, the production and the necessary inspection measures.

Certifiers and accreditation:
Currently there is not a published list of certifiers for this standard. A certifier needs to present their EN45011/ISO 65 accreditation on demand to demonstrate their ability to certify against this standard.

National Programme for Organic Production ( NPOP )
Scope for fiber products: Fiber and animal production on the farm
Intended Reach: Products sold in India
Identification on Product:
Managing Organization: Agricultural & Processed Food Products Export Development Authority (APEDA)
Link to NPOP Standard
National Programme for Organic Production (NPOP), established in 2001 for organic production in India, covers crop production, animal husbandry, food processing, labeling and storage and transport. NPOP has equivalency with the EEC 2092/91 regulation.

Certifiers and accreditation:
The National Accreditation Body (NAB) accredits certifying agents who inspect organic production and handling operations to insure that they meet the NPOP.
List of accredited certifiers for the NPOP

Textile Processing Standards available for organic cotton and organic fiber

Global Organic Textile Standard ( GOTS)
Scope: Organic fiber yarn spinning through finished textile products
Intended Reach: Global
Identification on Product: GOTS Logo
Managing Organization: International Working Group, GOTS
Contact: Herbert Ladwig
Link to GOTS Standard
The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) was formalized for use October 1, 2006 and addresses the requirements for all steps of organic textile production in addition to requiring the use of certified organic cotton fiber.

The GOTS standard provides criteria for the composition of fiber products that are labeled as “organic” and “made with organic” and also addresses “organic in conversion”. A “made with” product that contains a range of 70% to 95% organic cotton, may not contain both organic and non-organic fibers of the same type. The GOTS processing requirements include criteria for substances that may be used at each stage of manufacturing, but there is no published list of specific allowed and prohibited substances. GOTS also addresses practices such as packaging, environmental management, product quality (i.e., permissible residue levels in the product), and minimum social criteria.

Note: With the development of GOTS, many organizations are deferring to the GOTS standard over independent textile standards in order to support the global harmonization of organic textile processing standards. These include Control Union’s EKO, The Netherlands, International Association Natural Textile Industry (IVN), Germany, Organic Trade Association (OTA), AOFPS, USA, Ekolojik Tarim Kontrol Organizasyonu (ETKO), Turkey and Japan Organic Cotton Association (JOCA).

Certifiers and accreditation:
GOTS accredits certifying agents to inspect textile processors manufacturers for compliance to the standard.
List of accredited certifiers for GOTS

OE Blended Standard
Scope: 5-95% Organic cotton yarn spinning through finished textile products
Intended Reach: Global
Identification on Product: OE Blended Logo
Managing Organization: Organic Exchange
Contact: Organic Exchange
Link to OE Blended Standard
The current OE Blended Standard was developed in 2007 by Organic Exchange with the input of an advisory committee consisting of global certifying bodies. This standard applies to textile products that use a blend of organic and non-organic cotton or other fibers, and must contain a minimum of 5% organic cotton fiber. The standard requires that the organic cotton is produced on certified organic farms, and sets criteria for proper handling and tracking of the organic cotton through all steps of textile processing. This standard does not establish criteria for substances used during processing.

OE 100 Standard
Scope: 95-100% Organic cotton yarn spinning through finished textile product
Intended Reach: Global
Identification on Product: OE 100 logo
Managing Organization: Organic Exchange
Contact: Organic Exchange
Link to OE 100 standard
Developed in 2007 by Organic Exchange, with the certification advisory committee, this standard applies to textile products that contain from 95%- 100% certified organic cotton. The standard requires that the organic cotton is produced on certified organic farms, and sets criteria for proper handling and tracking of the organic cotton through all steps of textile processing. This standard does not establish criteria for substances used during processing.

Certifiers and accreditation:
Organic Exchange licenses certifying agents to inspect manufacturers for compliance to the OE standards. Certifying agents currently licensed for the OE standards (subject to change):
Control Union, the Netherlands
Institute for Marketecology (IMO), Germany

American Organic Fiber Processing Standard (AOFPS)
Scope: 95-100% Organic yarn spinning through packaged finished textile
Intended Reach: United States and Canada
Identification on Product: None
Managing Organization: Organic Trade Association
American Organic Fiber Processing Standards (AOFPS), developed by the Organic Trade Association (OTA), has been replaced by GOTS as the recognized global standard for organic textile processing. The AOFPS will remain as policy guidance for OTA members and others in the organic community of the United States and Canada because in many cases the AOFPS is more specific and does not contradict GOTS.

International Association of the Natural Textile Industry (IVN)
Scope: 95-100% organic yarn spinning through finished textile product
Intended Reach: Europe
Identification on Product: IVN Logo
Managing Organization:
Link to IVN Standard
International Association of the Natural Textile Industry (IVN) had developed a textile processing standard called Naturtextil, certified against by IMO, but now defers to GOTS. IVN has its own logo which was initially issued for the Naturtextil standard and was used for GOTS certification until GOTS developed its own logo.